An Archaeologist’s Guide to Rome
Francesca Di Maria
Sapienza University of Rome and Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität München (PhD Candidate)
Welcome to An Archaeologist’s Guide to Rome, the city that stole my heart during my university days! Together, we will embark on an exciting journey starting from Sapienza University of Rome (my alma mater). From there, we will explore the city’s charms, navigate around construction and revel in the beauty and history of Rome. Prepare for a blend of history, fun and—of course—delicious food!
Rome is vast, and there is so much to see. Here is what you will need for a perfect day of exploring:
- Comfortable walking shoes: You will be doing a lot of strolling.
- Light clothing: Rome can get quite warm, especially in the summer.
- Sunscreen: Protect yourself from the strong sun.
- Water bottle: Stay hydrated! One of the great things about Rome is its many nasoni: the characteristic public fountains found all over the city where you can refill your bottle with fresh, free water. Some areas (like near the Colosseum) even have dispensers for still and sparkling water where you can also re-charge your phone!
Sapienza University of Rome: Our Starting Point
Sapienza University was established in 1303. As such, it is one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Europe. The main campus (known as the Città Universitaria, or ‘university city’) was designed by architect Marcello Piacentini and inaugurated in 1935. It is a true city within the city (Where Am I? | Sapienza Università di Roma (uniroma1.it)), complete with educational buildings, administrative offices, libraries and museums. Besides the historical campus on Piazzale Aldo Moro in the San Lorenzo neighbourhood, Sapienza has various faculty and department buildings and offices in different areas of Rome, as well as university centres in other parts of the Lazio region.
But it is on the main campus that the EAA’s 2024 AM will take place.
To reach Sapienza:
- From Termini Station: It is a short walk (less than 20 minutes).
- From Tiburtina Station: You can take the metro B to Policlinico Station and walk for about 15 minutes, or hop on buses 71, 163, 448, or 545 to the Verano stop, or 492 to the De Lollis/Verano stop. It is less than a 5-minute walk from there.
Inside and around the Città Universitaria
Within the university walls, you can explore several museums (check out the Sapienza Museum Map Musei | Polo museale (uniroma1.it)) and enjoy a coffee at the bar near the main entrance. Remember to fill up your water bottle at one of the many fountains around campus!
The vibrant neighbourhood surrounding the university is known as San Lorenzo. It offers a lively atmosphere with plenty of bars, cafes and eateries perfect for students and visitors alike. Around campus, you can find a lot of bars for takeaway food (i.e. Livio, Bar Leonardi, C’era una Volta il Caffè or Bar dei Sanniti). If you prefer a sit-down meal, visit some typical Roman restaurants (i.e. Tram Tram, Osteria da Marcello or Osteria A Piedi Pari) where you can try different dishes like pasta alla carbonara (pasta with cream, bacon, black pepper and parmesan), pasta all’amatriciana (pasta with bacon, tomato and precorino reocmano), cacio e pepe (pasta with cheese and pepper) and gricia (pasta with guanciale, pecorino romano, and black pepper). I also recommend you give Roman pizza a go. It is thin and crispy unlike the Neapolitan style, but it is equally delicious! Some good places to try it are Pizzeria Formula 1 and Pizzeria L’economica.
A Glimpse into Rome’s Timeless Charm
Rome is truly unique, with a continuous history stretching back to its legendary founding on April 21, 753 BC. This rich past has created a city where you can capture Roman, medieval, Renaissance and contemporary elements in a single photograph. This blend of different eras has given Rome its well-deserved epithet as the “Eternal City”.
In the following, I will give you a taste of some of my favourite spots to visit by hopping on the Metro A and B lines, along with tips for enjoying the city to the fullest. First, a few caveats, however. Obviously, it is impossible to visit everything in a single day. Here, I will suggest some routes, varying in length and distance from Sapienza, to see as much as possible in a single go. Feel free—as I am—to stop and detour at museums or interesting sites. However, if do plan on visiting a specific museum, I highly recommend buying a ticket online ahead of time with the skip-the-line option.
Metro A Adventures
Termini Station: This is where the A and B lines meet and is a short walk from Sapienza’s main entrance. In front of the main entrance of Termini station, you can easily spot the Roman National Museum (Museo Nazionale Romano) at the Palazzo Massimo, a treasure trove of ancient Roman art and artefacts. Besides it are the Terme di Diocleziano (the baths of Diocletian), the largest and most impressive bath complex in Rome. Inside that structure is a museum with pre-roman findings as well.
Repubblica Stop: Nearby, you can explore the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (the basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels and of the Martyrs) and its solar calendar.
San Giovanni Stop: A bit farther than Termini but still within walking distance from the Città Universitaria via the lateral entrance on Via de Lollis. Here, you will find Porta Maggiore, one of the ancient city gates included in the Aqua Claudia Aqueduct. A little further, you’ll discover the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano, the cathedral church of Rome, which is stunning in its grandeur.
Flaminio Stop: Stroll through Piazza del Popolo (the People’s Square), head up to Pincio Terrace for some of the best panoramic views of Rome before a meander down the Via del Corso. The Via del Corso is a bustling shopping street leading to many attractions with side streets leading to Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. Do not miss Giolitti Gelateria, a must-stop for delicious gelato (my current favourite flavor? Champagne – it’s fabulous!).
Piazza Venezia: Admire the Altare della Patria (literally the “Alter of the Fatherland”) behind the metro construction block built over the turn of the last century to honour Victor Emmanuel II, the first kind of a unified Italy.
From here, choose your next adventure:
- Trastevere: Take the tram for a lively atmosphere, perfect for wandering through narrow, cobblestone streets or strolling along the riverside. (At night, it is even more enchanting).
- Capitoline Hill: from the Altare della Patria turn right, climb the steps and visit the Musei Capitolini (Capitoline Hill museums) or continue along the road and to the Teatro Marcello. From there, you can either follow the street downhill to the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth) church and Circo Massimo or explore the Jewish Ghetto ending at Largo di Torre Argentina archaeological area.
- Via dei Fori Imperiali: from the Altare della Patria, turn left and go admire and visit Colonna and Mercati di Traiano (the Market of Trajan), the Fori Imperiali (the Imperial Forum) and/or the Colosseum (where you can transfer to Metro B).
Ottaviano Stop: Visit Vatican City and the Vatican Museum. It is important to know that you would be well served to book tickets in advance. From there, you can easily reach the Castel Sant’Angelo. Nearby, on the other side of the river, you will find many typical Roman restaurants like Osteria da Fortunata and Da Tonino - Trattoria Bassetti.
Metro B Adventures
Colosseo Stop: The first thing you will see upon exiting the metro station is the iconic and breath-taking Colosseum, the Arco di Costantino (the Arc of Constantine) and the main entrance to the Fori Imperiali. Do not miss Michelangelo’s magnificent statue of Moses in San Pietro in Vincoli Church and—if you book a visit—the Domus Aurea, Nero’s Golden House.
From here, you can either take the metro to Circo Massimo stop or take a pleasant walk to Piazza Venezia, following Ara Coeli Street to arrive (as describe above) at Circo Massimo.
Once you arrive to the Giuseppe Mazzini Statue, Climb the hill via the road on the right behind the statue to reach the Giardino degli Aranci (literally the Garden of Orange Trees) for a fantastic view of Rome. Next, peek through the Aventine Keyhole for a unique view of St. Peter’s Basilica, only a few meters away from the garden.
Discovering Rome’s Churches along the road
Every church in Rome is a masterpiece of art and architecture. Step inside to admire the frescoes and intricate designs. Many churches incorporate elements from ancient Roman buildings, like the one next to Capitoline Hill or the one in Verano Square. Just remember that Rome is a traditional city and will expect visitors to the churches to dress modestly. That means you should avoid short skirts or shorts and sleeveless tops (or just have a light shawl in your bag to cover any bare shoulders).
Figure 1. An archaeologist’s map of Rome by Francesca Di Maria. Inset photos by Francesca Di Maria, Erika Ergasti and Flavia Palazzini.
Tips for a Great Experience
- Early bird advantage: Start your day early to beat the crowds at popular sites like the Colosseum and the Vatican, and to enjoy a few hours without the extremely warm temperatures.
- Local eats: Do not miss out on Roman cuisine. Try dishes like cacio e pepe, carbonara and supplì.
- Where to go for an evening drink? When the sun sets and it is time for a refreshing drink, here is the lowdown: If you are up for a lively student atmosphere (though it might be quieter in August), head to San Lorenzo, Piazza Bologna, or the Pigneto quarter. However, if you are craving a more romantic vibe—and do not mind spending a little more—Trastevere, Campo dei Fiori and the Monti Quarter are where you want to be! Sip, relax, and soak in the charming ambiance of Rome at night!
- Hidden Gems: Sometimes the best experiences come from wandering off the beaten path. Explore side streets and lesser-known spots for a more authentic city feel (this is my favourite way to visit Rome – I love getting lost in its side streets).
Rome is a city that invites you to explore, discover and fall in love with its timeless beauty. Since it is impossible to describe all of Rome in just a few words, I have created a map to give you a few points. See Figure 1. Along with the metro and tram routes to Trastevere (dotted lines), I have marked in red the paths I usually take when strolling around the city. Sometimes, I randomly wander into little alleyways and get lost, but that’s part of Rome’s charm. I won’t lie – I have often had to rely on Google Maps to find my way back! The numbers highlight just a few of the countless wonders you can see in Rome. I hope this guide helps you enjoy the city as much as I do.
Buon viaggio!
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